Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
